Lamu
Lamu is Kenya's oldest living town, a place like no other where life is lived
at it’s own relaxed rhythm, but a place whose history, charm and character built up over centuries has been retained.The
town of Lamu began life as a 14th century Swahili settlement and by the 1500s, the island was a thriving port, exporting timber,
ivory, amber, spices and slaves. The island has seen many visitors and influences, including Portuguese explorers, Turkish
traders and the Omani Arabs. All left their mark, but Lamu developed its own particular culture, which has ultimately endured
Until the 19th century dawned, Lamu's economy was hinged on slave labour and
with the abolition of slavery it declined rapidly. That is until the advent of tourists. In the 1960s Lamu was a hippy hangout
and tourists have loved visiting the island.There are no vehicles on this island; the donkey and the dhow remain the main
means of transport.
The island
is a beautiful place of rolling dunes and endless beaches, where tiny villages nestle among coconut and mango plantations.
But Lamu’s real attraction is its Old town. The narrow streets remain unchanged, and in the markets and squares around
the fort life moves at the same pace as it always has.
The island is famous for its intricately carved wooden doors and lintels and long
narrow streets. Most houses have a rooftops used as a patio indicative of a society where ‘hanging back’ and ‘catching
the breeze’ is important. To visit Lamu is to enter another world! Life slows down and long days are spent strolling
along the waterfront, exploring the town or relaxing on the beaches.
Lamu is strictly Islamic, and the people are great believers in tradition and custom.
This is a strong society built on a respect for the past.Dhow safaris can take you beyond Lamu into the surrounding archipelago,
where isolated villages, ancient ruins and a few luxurious and exclusive resorts lie hidden among the islands of Manda, Siyu,
Pate and Kiwayu.This idyllic island speaks to the heart and soul, and a trip to Lamu is a romantic experience that can become
a life long affair
Lamu
Attractions:
There are numerous sights in and around Lamu worth exploring. The architecture of the houses and
buildings is especially unique. Most buildings date back to the 18th century or before and are constructed out of local materials
including coral-rag blocks for the walls, wooden floors supported by mangrove poles, makuti roofs, and intricately carved
shutters for windows. The villages of Shela and Matondoni, Lamu Fort, the Swahili House Museum, and the Donkey Sanctuary should
also be included on every traveler’s itinerary.
Lamu - Swahili House Museum:
Lamu's
Swahili House Museum is a renovated example of an 18th C Swahili house. The interior of the house features cookware, beds
and other furniture that allow a glimpse of a classic working Swahili home. The ceremonial deathbed on display is where deceased
family members would lay before burial. An echo chamber is another part of the house. This is where women could greet visitors
when men were not around, without being seen. Close family members and friends were the only people to access the central
courtyard. It was used for daytime activities such as washing. The kitchen, located on the second floor, has a large wooden
pestle and mortar, a pasta maker, a water boiler and a flour-grinding stone on display as well as other common kitchen instruments.
Lamu Beaches
Shela Beach is a dune-backed beach that runs for 12km along the headland. It is a 40-minute walk or 10 minute
trip by dhow from Lamu. Located at the start of the beach is a mock fort built by an Italian entrepreneur. Shela is in the
channel between Lamu and Manda Island, a perfect spot for windsurfing, sailing and water skiing.
Manda
Beach is located on Manda Island, about a 20-minute dhow ride from Lamu. It is smaller and less busy but still excellent
for snorkelling, swimming, and sunbathing. Manda Island provides the backdrop of mangrove forest, baobab tress and a variety
of animals for a walking safari.
Donkey
Sanctuary:
Since donkeys are the main method of transport in Lamu, the Donkey Sanctuary was started provide
treatment for working donkeys. Located in northern Lamu, near the waterfront hosting, an estimated 2,200 donkeys used for
agriculture as well as to carry household provisions and building materials can be seen here. Regular treatment clinics have
been established, including a worming program every six months that are offered free of charge. Courses and training are offered
including harnessing and donkey care. Local donkeys that have been injured are also brought to the stable for rehabilitation
and rest.Animal welfare is promoted with
an annual donkey
competition that
gives a prize for the donkey in the best condition.
German
Postal Museum
Originally built as a private residence in the late 1800's, it was later converted and used as the first German Post
Office in East Africa, briefly from 1888 to 1891. Lamu was a major seaport with well-established links to the outside world.
The building was restored and now houses a museum with photographic exhibits and memorabilia showing the long historical relationship
between Germany and Kenya. It also depicts early industrial development through the form of communication via postal services
in Kenya.
Kiwayu
Island
Located in the northeast
of the Lamu archipelago and is a part of the Kiunga Marine National Reserve. Many visitors to the island come to snorkel on
the coral reefs, on the eastern side of the island The Dodori and Boni Game Reserves are off to the west of island. These
wild areas protect the fauna and flora of eastern Kenya. The animals found on the reserves are often migratory such as elephant
and buffalo. The permanent residents are lion, cheetah, serval, caracal, lesser kudu, monkeys and the rare African hunting
dog. Kiwayu has gained a reputation as a retreat for the rich and famous but that is within a luxury resort found at the far
end of the island.
Paté
Island
Paté is
the largest of the Lamu islands with a number of historical sites. Paté was originally settled in the 7th C by an Arabic
colony. The island is surrounded by mangrove swamp and can only be reached at high tide.
There are many ruins on Paté Island but the most spectacular is the fort at Siyu. Other
highlights include overgrown tombs and ruined mosques. Paté town is an interesting maze of winding alleys and three-story
homes. Founded in the 9th C, Paté became a center of trade and learning. The outskirts of town are outlined by a set
of ruined medieval walls belonging to Nabahani. Tobacco has been planted among the ruins but houses, mosques and tombs are
visible. Even though Nabahani has not yet been excavated, pottery and household objects can be seen in the interiors of many
of the buildings. Faza is another settlement that should not be missed. The town was destroyed in 1587 and later resettled.
Lamu Fort
Located in the island's main square.
The Sultan of Oman reportedly commenced construction of this imposing structure in 1813. Upon its completion in 1821 the fort
served as a garrison for Baluchi soldiers sent by the Sultan of Oman. Its protective presence encouraged new development around
it and some Lamu merchants erected shop front and buildings. Lamu Fort served as a prison from 1910 to 1984 for the British
colonial regime and the Kenyan government. After a complete restoration, the Fort now houses the Lamu branch of the Department
of Coastal Archaeology, the Lamu Old Town Conservation Office and the Public Library.
Lamu Museum
The Lamu Museum is on the waterfront, housed
in a building once occupied by Jack Haggard, Queen Victoria's consul in this outpost. Displays on Swahili culture include
a reconstructed Swahili house and relics from Takwa. Other exhibits include Lamu's nautical history, the Maulid Festival
and tribes that lived along this part of the coast, including the Boni who were legendary elephant hunters. The nautical section
of the Lamu museum features a variety of dhows
. Ceremonial horns, or siwa,
are an important part of the collection. The Lamu siwa is made from engraved brass but the siwa from Paté was carved
from a single elephant tusk.
The Takwa Ruins
The Takwa ruins on Manda
Island was a flourishing town in the 16th and 17th C. It was abandoned in haste and no one knows why. Proof of its existence
lie in the houses, mosque, pillar tomb and a city wall.Jamaa
Mosque is the largest surviving structure, with a large pillar on top the qibla wall. It is among the most notable features,
although the significance of the pillar is not known, some believe there is a Sheikh buried below the wall.It appears that
Takwa was a holy city, as all doors faced Mecca. Some residents of Shela, who believe they are descendants of Takwa, still
visit the ruins to pray.
Shanga
Ruins
Shanga was a large Swahili town approximately 1000 years old, occupied between the 8th and 14th C. Located on the south
coast of Paté Island; Shanga is best visited with a guide as the undergrowth inhibits many travellers. The Shanga Ruins
contain the remains of coral walls, two palaces, three mosques and a cemetery outside the walls with hundreds of tombs. A
white pillar tomb is one of the first remains to be seen but the large Friday mosque and another mosque near the sea are also
quite obvious. Local legend says that the town was settled by Chinese traders from Shanghai thus the name of Shanga. Chinese
pottery has been found among the ruins to support this story
Lamu Activities
Nightlife
Lamu has a strict Muslim culture and no alcohol can be consumed in view of
the public. Therefore, there is no alcohol in any Muslim run restaurants, although they do amazing fresh fruit juices. Only
a couple of hotels have bars. There is a Friday night local disco at the Civil Servants HQ playing and R'n'B.
In Shela, at the other end of the island, you can join the jet set and watch the sun go down. A nice thing to do is organize
a beach party; get the local guys to help with food, drinks, a fire and drums.
Family Travel
Travel with very young children can be difficult on Lamu as
there is no transport other than boat or donkey. If you are travelling with young children I would recommend you stay in Shela
as it is cleaner than the town and right on the beach. Bottled water is readily available.
Shopping
Most of the shops close at midday but open
again in the late afternoon. Lamu has lovely traditional furniture making industry; beds, chairs etc which can be exported.
There are stalls selling local crafts, baskets and local beaded jewellery on the sea front. 'Baraka' in the street
behind Palace hotel, has quality jewellery, clothing and artefacts from Africa and Indonesia, which lead into the highly recommended
Whispers Coffee Shop.
Sports
& Activities
It is essentially a beach
life in Lamu. There a very few organised sports facilities but there is a real delight sailing on a dhow, snorkelling or diving.
In Shela you can hire a wind surfer and take lessons from the extremely able and friendly local guys.
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